We made it to Coldfoot by airplane and now we started the long drive back to Fairbanks. It seemed daunting. Most of it would follow the Dalton Highway starting at Mile 175 (route), with the remainder on the Elliott Highway.
The James W. Dalton Highway is a rugged working road, built in 1974 specifically to serve the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. Cars can drive there but it’s meant for trucks.
Originally they paved the whole thing which I guess made sense at the time. However, decades of frost heaves and extreme weather decimated the asphalt. Now much of the Dalton lacks pavement and the brief paved portions aren’t in great shape either. Road crews constantly regrade gravel in an ongoing battle to stay ahead of potholes and washboards. It’s generally a dusty, dirty, or muddy experience during the warmer months.
Dispelling Misconceptions
I didn’t really know what to expect on the drive. However, my lack of understanding created basic misconceptions that dissipated quickly as the journey unfolded.
Televised Embellishment
Many people — if they know anything about the Dalton Highway — learned about it from the Ice Road Truckers television series. This was a filming location for Seasons 3 to 6 in 2009-2012. Naturally, Hollywood overinflated the dangers, creating tension and drama where maybe it didn’t exist quite like that.
For instance, winter is actually a fine time for a prudent and experienced trucker to drive the highway. Snow fills potholes for a smoother, faster ride. Additionally, Alaska’s extreme cold keeps the snow fresh instead of turning to ice, creating traction for heavy trucks. Sure, it’s a dangerous road that’s best left to professionals much of the time, but not as bad as the series implied.
A Surprising Amount to See
Also, I expected a long boring drive. We almost chose the fly-in / fly-out option to Coldfoot but I really wanted to see the Arctic Circle sign. I really debated whether I should endure hours-upon-hours of jostling down a rutted highway just to see a sign, even though I’m a dedicated geo-geek.
Fortunately there is so much more out there, especially the spectacular and varied scenery: mountains, forest, rivers, flats, and so on. There is wildlife, including the lynx we saw, and also rabbits, beavers, and birds. Some lucky people see bears, wolves, musk ox, or moose, but not us on this day. Even the road itself offered variety with frequent pullouts, historical markers, road signage, pipeline access, and work camps. Something new appeared at every corner.
But It’s a Slow Journey
Finally, don’t expect to do the speed limit, which is 50 miles per hour (80 kph). That might happen sometimes but generally the road was pretty rough. The truckers who drive it all the time and know every curve might get there but probably not the average tourist in a car or a van. Plus you’ll stop for a lot for cool stuff.
I made one of my lame YouTube videos. Check it out if you want to see some actual driving on the Dalton Highway plus a little bit of the aurora borealis at the end.
So let’s start driving down the Dalton Highway from Coldfoot!
Koyukuk River
Mile 156.3 (map)
We drove south an initial twenty miles from Coldfoot and crossed the south fork of the Koyukuk River. Here we found a great place to stop and explore the pipeline that was a constant presence along our route the entire day. It wasn’t that much different from what we experienced outside of Fairbanks although the scenery was better. We walked right up to the riverbank and watched the water flow for awhile too.
Grayling Lake
Mile 150.2 (map)
It’s never wise to pass up an opportunity to use an easily available restroom, especially way out here. So of course we stopped, and as a bonus, the Grayling Lake pullout came with a view. We noticed another sign of winter approaching, a thin layer of ice blanketing the lake.
An interpretive sign explained that people have enjoyed this view for millennia. Archaeologists found evidence of indigenous people camping here as far back as three thousand years ago. However, they had a different intent, using the high ground to track and hunt big game animals like caribou and moose.
Gobbler’s Knob
Mile 132 (map)
I won’t repeat the story our driver told about the etymology of Gobbler’s Nob. Allegedly it goes back to the gold rush days of isolated young men and a couple of enterprising women. Or it could refer to Groundhog Day and the home of Punxsutawney Phil. I’ve been to the famed Pennsylvania location with the groundhog and it didn’t look anything like that, but I’m not sure I believe the gold rush story either. Maybe someone just liked turkeys.
This might be the most dramatic scenic overlook of the drive, set atop a ridge with sweeping views. My camera couldn’t capture the enormity of the nearly endless panorama.
Arctic Circle
Mile 115.2 (map)
Finally we reached the actual line of the Arctic Circle at ~66° 33′ north, the southernmost spot that experiences a full day of sunlight on the summer solstice and a full night of darkness on the winter solstice.
Here, along the Dalton Highway, the line crosses an otherwise unremarkable location. Nonetheless, lots of visitors drive up from Fairbanks, snap a few photos, and then drive all the way back as a single day trip. Even so, the Bureau of Land Management does provide a primitive campground for those who want to stay the night. I’m not being judgmental about anyone who comes here. In fact I was doing much the same, and entire portions of this blog focus on artificial lines just like this one. It also reminded me that I need to update an old article I called My Travel Box.
We switched drivers and vans at this point. Our original driver returned to Coldfoot and our new driver finished the trek back to Fairbanks with us.
Finger Mountain
Mile 98 (map)
So we pressed onward, stopping next at the Finger Mountain wayside. Someone long ago named the ridge for a rocky protrusion that resembled a finger. And again, they were irreverent young men far from civilization, so guess which finger. Right.
Anyway, the wayside included an interpretive trail that led to an even higher vantage with another set of sweeping views from a rocky summit. The exposed outcrop caught all the wind and I was genuinely cold for the first time that day. It was nice to get back into the van for a cup of hot chocolate.
Yukon River
Mile 56 (map)
Then we continued onward until we arrived at the Yukon River, as dusk approached. The river drains a massive watershed within Alaska and the neighboring Yukon Territory in Canada, an area larger than the state of Texas.
It had been partly to mostly cloudy all day long. At the river, we noticed a distinct clearing as the sun began to set. Clear skies bode well for spotting the northern lights, and we kept our fingers crossed.
But first we needed dinner. On the north bank, near the base of the E. L. Patton Yukon River Bridge, stood the Yukon River Camp, the first place to grab a meal since leaving Coldfoot. Literally, it takes hours of driving to get here. We were happy for a taste of civilization and a chance to get off the road and stretch our legs before the final push to Fairbanks. The camp offered a surprisingly good menu given its captive audience and remote location.
Aurora Borealis
We caught a lucky break from the moment we left the Yukon River Camp at nightfall. The first major magnetic storm of autumn 2025 coincided with our drive, on September 30. Clear skies far away from light pollution offered multiple hours of remarkable sightings. We pulled over at least four or five times to better appreciate nature’s light show. The moon wasn’t out yet, and the aurora borealis shimmered in shades of purple and green. It covered the entire sky from one side to the other.
I took dozens of photos and I selected this one because it also shows the Big Dipper in the upper-left. That felt appropriate given our location and the Alaska state flag.
Finally, around 1:30 a.m., we pulled into Fairbanks and returned to our Airbnb, thirteen hours after we left.
Articles in the Interior Alaska Series
- Golden Heart
- Downtown Fairbanks
- Greater Fairbanks
- Parks Highway
- Coldfoot
- Dalton Highway
- Richardson Highway & More
- Memorable Signs
See Also: The Complete Photo Album on Flickr.
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