I’ve mentioned previously the difference between windward and leeward, and how it’s particularly pronounced on the “Big Island” of Hawaii. We used the windward side as our home base so we had our share of tropical moisture and verdant vegetation. It rained every day where we stayed south of Hilo. However, we never had what I would call a rainy day, just spurts of precipitation at random times that quickly moved inland and then the cycle repeated.
From Above
We explored many different ways and most memorably from above. This was possible after the Kalawao trip fell through. We received a full refund and I decided to use our newly-available surplus on a splurge, a helicopter tour of the southeastern side of the island. So we went to the airport at Hilo, met our helicopter, and explored for the next hour. I remember my very first helicopter trip many years ago and this one was much better. And of course a lot more expensive.
Lava Fields
We followed the lush coastline south and then inland over to the Pu’U ‘O’O cinder cone (map), an eastern offshoot or rift zone emanating from the Kilauea volcano. This cone erupted nearly continuously from 1983 to 2018, spreading layers of disgorged magma across a corner of the Big Island, all the way down to the sea. It created 230 new acres of Hawaiian territory, so even today volcanoes continue to grow the state.
Waterfalls
Usually the helicopter tour would extend even closer to Kilauea. This time, particularly low-lying clouds hugged the windward slopes, making it too dangerous to fly there. So instead the pilot showed us waterfalls over by the coast. Frankly I wasn’t too disappointed because we saw Kilauea from the ground earlier in the trip. Plus I love waterfalls and I don’t usually get to see them from above like this.
The Wailuku River includes a whole series of waterfalls as it drains the eastern flank of Mauna Kea and runs through Hilo. Probably the best known is Rainbow Falls on Hilo’s doorstep, along with the Boiling Pots and Pe’epe’e Falls just upstream, and we saw all of those but my photos weren’t great. That because I’m not a good photographer. It had nothing to do with the skills of the pilot.
I took the featured photo a little further upstream (map). Unfortunately I couldn’t find a name for it although I’m sure the locals call it something.
Hilo
Finally we turned back towards our starting point, flying directly above Hilo. The terrain here is relatively flat, the remnants of lava flowing primarily from Mauna Loa over the last several thousand years. The great eruption of 1880-1881 brought lava to within one and a half miles of Hilo Bay. It didn’t reach Hilo at the time but houses exists in some of those places today.
Gently sloping terrain hides another danger: tsunamis. The bay forms a near perfect conduit for waves formed by earthquakes thousands of miles away. Hilo was hit by a tsunami from an Aleutian Islands earthquake in 1946, and again from a Chilean earthquake in 1960. Both resulted in significant loss of life and extensive damage to the city, making Hilo the “the tsunami capital of the United States“.
People living there have to watch out in both directions; lava coming from the mountains and waves coming from the sea. Even paradise has a price but it still looked wonderful from above!
Airport
I mentioned the airport at Kona in an earlier article so I might as well focus on the one in Hilo too. They’re bookend airports serving different sides of the island. After all it’s called the Big Island for a reason. We went to the Hilo airport a couple of times.
Commuter Terminal
Well, the first time we stopped there was for our helicopter tour. We went to the commuter terminal (map), a completely separate building from the main terminal, with its own dedicated parking. There is no security line, and no differentiation between landside and airside other than two “gates” which are simply doors leading directly onto the tarmac with placards above them saying Gate 1 and Gate 2. Two companies operate helicopter tours from there, each with a counter and a gate. The small waiting area included just a handful of seats, and it didn’t need any more than that. Spartan and functional.
Commercial Terminal
The commercial terminal looked opulent in comparison. We got through security for our flight to Honolulu and it felt like I’d stepped into someone’s living room. Check out those comfy couches with coffee tables! Also there was an upstairs boarding area with more traditional airport decor. However, the place was so small that we could hang out on the couches until the jet started boarding and still get to the gate in under a minute.
And yes, gate numbering started with 3 because the first two were back at the commuter terminal. I’m not sure why that little bit of trivia amused me. Maybe it’s because a lot of passengers wouldn’t know the reason even though I did, although I can’t imagine anyone else caring either.
Botanical Gardens
I’ve become a fan of botanical garden over the last few years. Even so, it’s probably too early to start “counting” them. Goodness knows I have enough things to track and count already. However, I’ll generally stop by and check out the occasional garden if it’s easy and convenient.
The University of Hawaii – Hilo maintains just such a facility and it fit the criteria (map). Sure, there are probably bigger places with greater variety elsewhere in Hawaii but this one was in Hilo and it’s free. It specialized in cycads and palms. Just as much though, I enjoyed walking through this small(ish) campus of the University of Hawaii system.
Shoreline
This side of the island, with active volcanoes continuing to regurgitate lava, tends to have a rugged coastline. There hasn’t been enough time for waves to beat down the rocks. Kona is better for classic beach vacations. Or go to Maui like we did earlier in the trip where we got more than our fill of sandy shoreline.
However, it’s hard to beat the visual beauty and power of waves crashing upon cliffs. We stayed at an area called Hawaiian Paradise Park (map) and there were plenty of trails through this amazing scenery.
Ola Brew
I collected one more brewery during this part of the trip, Ola Brew, right in the heart of Hilo. We stopped for lunch between the helicopter ride and the visit to the botanical gardens. It was pretty much along the direct path so this was an easy choice. What a nice stop sandwiched within a great day.
See Also: The Complete Photo Album on Flickr.
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