Skyline Drive hugs the crest of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains for 105 miles (169 kilometres), down the length of Shenandoah National Park. I’ve traveled every section of it, in whole or in part several times, as recently as 2022. So it felt like I rejoined an old friend as we undertook a day-trip from our home near Washington, DC.
We only had time for the Northern District, a section extending from Mile 0 at Front Royal to Mile 31.5 at Thornton Gap. This formed a reasonable one day excursion at a relaxing pace. Skyline Drive imposes a strict 35 mph (56 kph) speed limit, and frankly, why would anyone want to go any faster through such amazing scenery?
We chose a random Tuesday in May. This avoided crowds that plague the parkway during busier times of the year and detract from the experience. We also began our journey just after daybreak to avoid DC traffic and the intense heat of an uncharacteristically summer-like day. Weather reports predicted an intense 95° Fahrenheit (35° Celsius) with full sun by late afternoon. We would be home long before then.
Dickey Ridge
It was still pleasantly cool as we entered the park and climbed into the mountains. We drove even slower than usual because of the squirrels. For some odd reason they all seemed to migrate onto the asphalt in some sort of foraging frenzy. Dozens of them. It seemed like a poor evolutionary strategy although I didn’t hit any of them either so maybe the squirrels knew better. I assume they melded back into the forest as traffic picked up.
Then we arrived at the Dickey Ridge Visitor Center at Mile 4.5 (map). We arrived too early to actually visit the center — typically it opens at 9:00 a.m. — although the restrooms were open. Restrooms don’t appear often along the ridge so it’s a good idea to take advantage of these opportunities when they arise.
We admired the view from a meadow and looked for birds. The Merlin app identified about a dozen species within earshot but we couldn’t spot most of them. They were hiding somewhere in the canopy as they tweeted and chirped all around us.
Take a Hike
This was the primary goal of the day. Most people come for the drive, which is amazing of course. However, an intricate network of trails crisscross the ridge and those are accessible only by foot.
We parked at the Compton Peak Trailhead at Mile 10.2 (map). The temperature hadn’t climbed much although we packed plenty of water just in case. Then we applied insect repellent even though it wasn’t too buggy this early in the season. This was supposed to be a bad year for ticks and we wanted to be extra careful. Then we set off into the woods.
Appalachian Trail
We left the parking lot, walked across Skyline Drive, and headed south on the renowned Appalachian Trail, covering a staggering 0.04% of its 2,197 mile length. Yes, it was a mere 0.88 miles along the famous trail to our intended spur, marked by a concrete pole at the intersection. This was mostly uphill although nothing dramatic, meticulously maintained and thoroughly identified by the AT’s iconic white blazes.
I’ve hiked other short segments of the AT before, mostly further north near Harpers Ferry, where Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia come together at the MDVAWV tripoint. Compton Peak was more remote although equally enjoyable.
Compton Peak Trail East
At the pole, we turned left and followed blue blazes towards the eastern terminus of the Compton Peak Trail. Along the AT, blue blazes often mark side trails that lead to scenic views or other points of interest. Sure enough, after about 0.2 miles of vigorous but manageable downhill hiking, we found the endpoint. This was a geographic feature known as columnar jointing.
In the photo, notice the hexagonal basalt pillars formed by ancient lava. This is the underside of the formation which requires a rocky downhill scramble that may be difficult for some, but the effort pays off.
The younger kid is pursuing an undergraduate degree in geology so this offered excellent hiking motivation. The older kid just got a masters degree in entomology and also spotted something worthwhile: an unusual insect. It was a Cryptocercus cockroach, native to the Appalachians, and more closely related to termites than other cockroaches. It just happened to amble across the trail in front of us for no particular reason. We took a photo and let it go on its way.
So there was something to make everyone happy on this hike.
Compton Peak Trail West
Then we retraced our steps back to the cement marker, a more strenuous journey uphill this time, and crossed the AT to take the western spur. Once again we covered about 0.2 miles to the terminus, first continuing uphill a bit further and then downhill to an outcrop. It brought us to a wonderful scenic overlook. Next we returned to the cement marker a final time and retraced our path on the AT back to the parking lot.
The total distance as recorded by my GPS-enabled watch was 2.44 miles, taking us about an hour and forty minutes. That included leisurely stops at the columnar jointing and the overlook. Both figures came remarkably close to the National Park Service estimates. Overall the out-and-back was pretty relaxing and definitely enjoyable; nothing too strenuous.
Incidentally the east and west endpoints sit in different counties, a fact I had to mention as a dedicated County Counter. County boundaries through the park follow the top of the ridge. However, Skyline Drive and the Appalachian Trail both meander back-and-forth across the ridge as dictated the terrain. So Compton East sits in Rappahannock County and Compton West in Warren County. Likewise, drivers and hikers cross the border multiple times throughout the day without ever knowing it.
Hogwallow Flats Overlook
We stopped at several Skyline Drive overlooks after finishing the hike. I took photos at all of them but I won’t bother posting each waypoint because, honestly, they started to look similar. There’s such an abundance of magnificent views that complacency fatigue sets in after awhile. I’ll post this one from the Hogwallow Flats Overlook at Mile 13.6 (map) because I liked the name. We started skipping overlooks more regularly as lunchtime approached.
Elkwallow Wayside
Fortunately we planned a solution for our hunger as we planned the excursion; the Elkwallow Wayside at Mile 24 (map). Another wallow! Apparently animals enjoy wallowing in the Appalachians.
The park operates a seasonal camp store and grill at this stop. I bet it’s a godsend for AT through-hikers who pass right next to it. This was nice for us too. They sells burgers, fries, and other simple fare from the grill. So we enjoyed lunch at a picnic table under a large shade tree and relaxed for awhile. Also, the border shenanigans continued down here but crossing into Page County instead.
Bonus: Marys Rock Tunnel
We continued a little further until Thornton Gap at Mile 31.5 where there’s an exit onto U.S. Route 211, leading back to the Washington, DC area. However, I had one more stop in mind that took us briefly into the park’s Central District. This was the tunnel through Marys Rock, at Mile 32.2 (map). I’ve always liked this tunnel and it’s the only one on Skyline Drive so I drove through it and parked at the overlook, savoring every moment. Then we turned around and headed home.
Reward: Buckland Farm Market Brewery
Ordinarily it takes a little less than two hours to drive back from Thornton Gap but I had another idea. We could take a break about halfway home and visit a local brewery. I’d never been to the Buckland Farm Market Brewery between Warrenton and Gainesville before (map) so we stopped for our final reward of the day. One more brewery for my list.
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