{"id":15475,"date":"2014-10-22T18:39:54","date_gmt":"2014-10-22T23:39:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.howderfamily.com\/blog\/?p=15475"},"modified":"2022-05-23T15:00:05","modified_gmt":"2022-05-23T20:00:05","slug":"nest-of-spies","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.howderfamily.com\/blog\/nest-of-spies\/","title":{"rendered":"Nest of Spies"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>I&#8217;ve mentioned several times before the extremely localized nature of many geo-oddities. Often I&#8217;ve used my very own hometown of Arlington County, Virginia as an ongoing proxy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>So I created a bicycle ride over the weekend that highlighted a specific theme that I&#8217;ve not discussed before. Being located so close to the nation&#8217;s capital, Arlington County has been a hotbed of spies, espionage, and various cat-and-mouse games between the United States and the former Soviet Union (and now Russia).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A little Interubes sleuthing uncovered a few of the more noteworthy events and places in Arlington. The amount of activity that occurred behind the scenes amazed me. Even so, I&#8217;m sure most of it remains hidden and only a tiny portion ever made it into public view. Naturally I had to visit some of the known locations in person, and readers can too. <a href=\"https:\/\/goo.gl\/maps\/gBEVNQu2Fs5FMXj16\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">I produced a map<\/a> that begins and ends at the Ballston Metro Station. The complete route is about 10 miles (16 km).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>All photos are my own unless otherwise labeled.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The Early Cold War<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/96225726@N08\/15390962450\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/3941\/15390962450_7cf0e09c80_b.jpg\" alt=\"Arlington Hall. Photo by howderfamily.com; (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0)\"\/><\/a><figcaption>Arlington Hall as it now appears<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Arlington Hall began as a girls&#8217; school in the 1920&#8217;s. However, a ready-made facility with easy access to the Pentagon sounded really attractive to the government a little later. So the military seized and closed the school during the Second World War as vital to the American war effort.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It became Arlington Hall Station, a headquarters of the US Army&#8217;s Signal Intelligence Service. There, cryptologists focused on cracking Japanese codes. Then the Army decided to retain the property after the war because of an emerging new threat, the Cold War. Eventually the operation became part of the newly-formed National Security Agency.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Soviet efforts to penetrate Arlington Hall <a href=\"https:\/\/vicsocotra.com\/stories\/10-31-07-spy_games.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">began almost immediately<\/a>, and succeeded.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\"><p>&#8220;The secrets were held from everyone except the Russians&#8230; the first decrypt of Soviet KGB messages sent from New York was witnessed by Bill Weiband, the NKVD agent. The secrets were later officially shared with Kim Philby, the phlegmatic British MI-6 liaison officer to the new CIA in 1949, when he visited Arlington Hall.&#8221;<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>Many of the Arlington Hall workers lived in the adjacent garden apartments of <a href=\"https:\/\/buckingham-arl.weebly.com\/#\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Buckingham<\/a> and the single family homes of the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arlingtonforestva.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Arlington Forest<\/a> neighborhood. Soviet spies flocked there too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>An off-premise Officers Club sat at the old Henderson Estate, now the site of the Lubber Run Community Center (<a href=\"https:\/\/goo.gl\/maps\/bW27oTkA12ekqgWy5\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">map<\/a>). Officials feared inebriated officers might say things that should remain silent so they moved the club onto campus. That didn&#8217;t halt the flow of sensitive information from deeply-embedded moles though.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Cryptology operations moved to more secure facilities in the 1980&#8217;s. One part of the Arlington Hall campus now hosts the State Department&#8217;s Foreign Service Institute and the other holds the US Army National Guard Readiness Center. That was the official word, anyway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There were also rumors of Soviet and\/or East German operations coordinated from a condominium building at 1515 S. Arlington Ridge Road (<a href=\"https:\/\/goo.gl\/maps\/3xFqyQciZigbkKkr5\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Street View<\/a>). I had no idea whether that was true or not, although Arlington Ridge Road did make an appearance on Twelve Mile Circle in a <a href=\"\/blog\/?p=8419\">completely different context<\/a> a few years ago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Aldrich Ames<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/96225726@N08\/15389965079\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/5606\/15389965079_aa7ca9e3d0_b.jpg\" alt=\"Aldrich Ames House in Arlington. Photo by howderfamily.com; (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0)\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Aldrich Ames is serving <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bop.gov\/inmateloc\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">a lifelong prison sentence<\/a> at the Allenwood high security prison in Pennsylvania, as he has done for the last two decades. He served as a counterintelligence officer in the Central Intelligence Agency for more than 30 years before his final exposure and arrest in 1994. His job focused on targeting people who worked at the Soviet Embassy to see if he could convert them into moles. Behind the scenes, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fbi.gov\/history\/famous-cases\/aldrich-ames\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">he sold information about the identity<\/a> of Soviet spies who then promptly faced execution or simply disappeared.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\"><p>&#8220;The CIA and FBI learned that Russian officials who had been recruited by them were being arrested and executed. These human sources had provided critical intelligence information about the USSR, which was used by U.S. policy makers in determining U.S. foreign policy. Following analytical reviews and receipt of information about Ames\u2019s unexplained wealth, the FBI opened an investigation in May 1993.&#8221;<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>The FBI arrested Ames at his Arlington home, at <a href=\"https:\/\/goo.gl\/maps\/LCTKx9dUBgsPJoQE8\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">2512 N Randolph Street<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The <a href=\"https:\/\/propertysearch.arlingtonva.us\/Home\/Search\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Arlington County property records<\/a> noted ownership by Aldrich H. &amp; Rosario C. Ames. The Federal government seized Ames&#8217; property and sold it in 1995.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Robert Hanssen<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/5599\/15390569847_f211bd5761_b.jpg\" alt=\"Long Branch Nature Center Amphitheater. Photo by howderfamily.com; (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0)\"\/><figcaption>A dead drop used by Robert Hanssen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Robert Hanssen worked for the Federal Bureau of Investigation until his 2001 arrest. He now <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bop.gov\/inmateloc\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">serves a life sentence<\/a> at Florence ADMAX prison in South Carolina. Like Ames, Hanssen sold secrets primarily for greed, and he exposed informants buried deep within the Soviet military system. Hanssen used a number of &#8220;dead drops,&#8221; or inconspicuous places where he could leave documents and receive payments. At least one of those secret hiding spots was located in Arlington.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I used to take my children to the <a href=\"https:\/\/parks.arlingtonva.us\/locations\/long-branch-nature-center-park\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Long Branch Nature Center<\/a> when they were younger (<a href=\"https:\/\/goo.gl\/maps\/UdwU6GjHz3LofPm37\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">map<\/a>). Little did I suspect that it had a hidden historical past. There, under the edge of a wooden outdoor amphitheater (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/96225726@N08\/15390569947\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">photo<\/a>), Russian agents left a paper bag filled with $50,000 in cash for Hanssen. The FBI was already on Hanssen&#8217;s tail at that point and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.arlingtonmagazine.com\/spy-games\/?cparticle=3&amp;siarticle=2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">watched the location for several days<\/a>. Hanssen never showed-up although officials captured him at another dead drop a little later. Upon arrest he reportedly exclaimed, &#8220;<em>What took you so long?<\/em>&#8220;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Operation Ghost Stories<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-4-3 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Operation Ghost Stories: Video 10\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/eWgk8cs4mU4?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><figcaption>FBI Video of a Dead Drop in Arlington<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Just when everyone thought the Cold War ended long ago, it reemerged from the underground in 2010, resurfaced by the FBI&#8217;s <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fbi.gov\/news\/stories\/operation-ghost-stories-inside-the-russian-spy-case\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Operation Ghost Stories<\/a>. As the FBI stated,<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\"><p>&#8220;Our agents and analysts watched the deep-cover operatives as they established themselves in the U.S. (some by using stolen identities) and went about leading seemingly normal lives\u2014getting married, buying homes, raising children, and assimilating into American society&#8230; The SVR was in it for the long haul. The illegals were content to wait decades to obtain their objective, which was to develop sources of information in U.S. policymaking circles.&#8221;<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>The ten Russian deep undercover agents that were arrested &#8212; including two who lived in Arlington &#8212; were not convicted of any crime. They returned to Russia as part of a prisoner exchange; of spies traded for spies. Both sides continued the cloak-and-dagger.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The FBI released a large compendium of documents from their investigation in 2011 including a video of an actual drop taking place in an unnamed Arlington park. It included a bag containing $5,000. There was <a href=\"https:\/\/www.arlnow.com\/2011\/11\/01\/fbi-video-of-russian-spy-activity-in-arlington\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">speculation about the actual location<\/a> at the time. It could have been one of several Arlington locations because of the lack of visual clues in the video, although most signs pointed to Glencarlyn Park (<a href=\"https:\/\/goo.gl\/maps\/1AJE5v9GFC5vfGnw7\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">map<\/a>). Fittingly, that would be less than a mile from Hanssen&#8217;s dead drop. I looked around and couldn&#8217;t find an exact match although the bridges there were constructed in a similar manner (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/96225726@N08\/15573921251\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">photo<\/a>). I&#8217;ll keep looking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Maybe I&#8217;ll find a bag of cash.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8217;ve mentioned several times before the extremely localized nature of many geo-oddities. Often I&#8217;ve used my very own hometown of Arlington County, Virginia as an ongoing proxy. So I created a bicycle ride over the weekend that highlighted a specific theme that I&#8217;ve not discussed before. Being located so close to the nation&#8217;s capital, Arlington [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[28,96,22],"tags":[4962,42,4964,2487,3279,4961,4963,3451,1273,1272,30],"class_list":["post-15475","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cities","category-history","category-counties","tag-aldrich-ames","tag-arlington","tag-arlington-hall","tag-cia","tag-cold-war","tag-fbi","tag-robert-hanssen","tag-russia","tag-soviet-union","tag-ussr","tag-virginia"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Nest of Spies - Twelve Mile Circle - An Appreciation of Unusual Places<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Little did I know that my hometown of Arlington, Virginia served as an attractive location for Russian spies.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.howderfamily.com\/blog\/nest-of-spies\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Nest of Spies - Twelve Mile Circle - An Appreciation of Unusual Places\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Little did I know that my hometown of Arlington, Virginia served as an attractive location for Russian spies.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.howderfamily.com\/blog\/nest-of-spies\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Twelve Mile Circle - An Appreciation of Unusual Places\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2014-10-22T23:39:54+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2022-05-23T20:00:05+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/3941\/15390962450_7cf0e09c80_b.jpg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Twelve Mile Circle\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@TheReal12MC\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@TheReal12MC\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Twelve Mile Circle\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.howderfamily.com\\\/blog\\\/nest-of-spies\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.howderfamily.com\\\/blog\\\/nest-of-spies\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Twelve Mile Circle\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.howderfamily.com\\\/blog\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/9d80a5a18ef467b299e8ca0ed890ba1e\"},\"headline\":\"Nest of Spies\",\"datePublished\":\"2014-10-22T23:39:54+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2022-05-23T20:00:05+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.howderfamily.com\\\/blog\\\/nest-of-spies\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1168,\"commentCount\":1,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.howderfamily.com\\\/blog\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/9d80a5a18ef467b299e8ca0ed890ba1e\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.howderfamily.com\\\/blog\\\/nest-of-spies\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/live.staticflickr.com\\\/3941\\\/15390962450_7cf0e09c80_b.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"Aldrich Ames\",\"Arlington\",\"Arlington Hall\",\"CIA\",\"Cold War\",\"FBI\",\"Robert Hanssen\",\"Russia\",\"Soviet Union\",\"USSR\",\"Virginia\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Cities\\\/Towns\",\"History\",\"U.S. Counties\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.howderfamily.com\\\/blog\\\/nest-of-spies\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.howderfamily.com\\\/blog\\\/nest-of-spies\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.howderfamily.com\\\/blog\\\/nest-of-spies\\\/\",\"name\":\"Nest of Spies - 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